If I had to name all the types of Japanese noodles I know, it would pretty much be udon, ramen and soba. Embarrassingly, that’s about the extent of what I’ve been exposed to living in Australia. It’s kind of like how my sushi knowledge stops at tuna and mayo.
But when I was in Lake Yamanaka, (or Yamanakako), I was introduced to a new type of noodle at a restaurant called Kosaku. These noodles are known as hōtō noodles. And dare I say, it might be my favourite one yet.
Where is Kosaku Restaurant in Yamanakako?
We actually stumbled upon Kosaku by chance while walking along the path next to Lake Yamanaka. We’d arrived in town by highway bus about an hour earlier and were staying the night at a nearby glamping site called Gramercy Village. Kosaku is about a 23-minute walk from the bus stop or 15 minutes if you’re coming from the glamping site.
From the outside, Kosaku has that unmistakable traditional Japanese charm. Its exterior features wooden sliding doors, timber beams, and noren curtains swaying gently over the entrance. It looks like the kind of place that’s been serving comforting bowls of noodles for decades.
We had no idea Kosaku was popular
When we first arrived at Kosaku around 12.30 p.m., we didn’t know it was one of the more popular dining spots around Lake Yamanaka. It should’ve been obvious, though, with a steady stream of people coming in and out. A clipboard with a waiting list was sitting on a table inside the door, so we put our names down without thinking much of it. Little did we know, we’d be waiting for 30 minutes before a table was free.
I later found out there’s a reason why Kosaku has such a devoted following. Known for its specialty hōtō noodles, a regional dish from Yamanashi, the restaurant attracts both locals and visitors alike. The noodles are thick and chewy (similar to pappardelle – one of my favourite pastas!) and served in a rich, miso-based broth. I can definitely see why people would be willing to wait for a bowl of this!
Interestingly, it wasn’t until I started researching for this post and visited their website that I discovered Kosaku is actually a chain with multiple locations across the region. Despite that, it didn’t feel like your typical chain restaurant. The traditional interior and warm service made it feel like a standalone, family-owned spot.
The menu at Kosaku
The menu was full of regional dishes and I was torn between the Pumpkin or Mushroom Hōtō. In the end, I went with the Pumpkin, since it’s their signature broth.
According to some online reviews, Kosaku does have English menus available, but on the day we visited, we were handed Japanese ones. Out came Google Translate, and as I scanned down the menu, a few unexpected words started popping up: bear meat, soft-shelled turtle, and horse sashimi. Yes, you read that right.
I actually had to rescan the menu just to double-check those translations were correct. As a vegetarian, I don’t judge what others choose to eat, but if you’re not keen on more “exotic” meats, just a heads-up that Kosaku does serve them, and some diners come for exactly that.
My Pumpkin Hoto review
The food came out pretty quickly (maybe ten minutes after we ordered) and the noodles were amazing. The hōtō was served bubbling in a hot iron pot, piled high with thick, chewy noodles and chunky seasonal vegetables like pumpkin, mushrooms, cabbage, and more. Honestly, I felt like I ate more vegetables in that one bowl than I usually do in a whole day.
I don’t know what the stalk-looking vegetable is in the soup, but holy heck, was it delicious! After using Google Image to do a search, the best I could find is that it’s likely a type of Japanese mountain vegetable, or sansai. Whatever it was, I’d happily eat an entire bowl of just that.
As for the broth, the pumpkin added a natural sweetness and gave it a lovely thickness that made each mouthful extra comforting. I’ve never had anything quite like it. Clearly, it made an impression, since I’m now here writing about it on my blog.
Final thoughts
Even though I was pretty much at the line between hungry and hangry, Kosaku was well worth the wait. If you’re in the Yamanashi region, trying hōtō noodles should one-hundred percent be on your bucket list. If Yamanakako feels a bit out of the way, there’s a branch in Kawaguchiko that might be easier to reach.
The staff were genuinely lovely, and our waitress spoke English, which made asking about dietary stuff refreshingly simple. The restaurant takes both card and cash, and they’re open every day from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. One tip that I have is to show up a little early (or a little late) to dodge the lunchtime crowd.
All things considered, this meal turned out to be one of the surprise highlights of my time at Lake Yamanaka. If you find yourself in the area with a sudden urge for noodles, do yourself a favour and check it out.
